I taught beginning knitting classes for more than five years, and advanced classes at least three. One of the comments I hear most often from students is that they're afraid to block their project because they don't want to ruin it.
I decided to post about that so I can have a handy place to point people to when I'm asked. And maybe you'll learn something new, too!
First, yes, you can get your wool wet. Think about it, the sheep stand outside all day, dunk their heads in troughs for a cool drink, and occasionally hit a puddle. The same goes for qiviut (muskox), cashmere, camel, bison, alpaca, etc. What you don't want to do is agitate your wool, and this is one of the reasons why we don't throw hand knit sweaters in a washing machine. Another reason is because it's handmade. Not all fibers and fabrics act the same in water - some shrink, some grow. This is why swatching, and blocking your swatch, is so important. In general, plant fibers often soften and "grow" because they are heavier, but animal fibers that haven't been treated will shrink, or felt. Nylon and acrylic are essentially plastic, they're not going to change - this also means, that they're not really going to block out for a lacy edge. Things to think about:
-How much time are you going to invest in this project? Forty hours? A year? Take one hour now and make a swatch to block.
-How much did the materials cost? $5? Okay, maybe don't bother. $200? Time to do it right!
-Is it a gift? Know what will happen before you send it off.
-Will it be closely photographed? A pattern sample, a wedding garment or special gift? Plan ahead.
-What is the intended use of the piece? If you're knitting a dishcloth or towel, it's going to get wet! If you're making a shawl for a wedding, it will probably be treated with a lot more care, perhaps stored away for special occasions.
-Are you being paid to make it? If yes, DO NOT skip the blocking! Take time to save headaches later.
Here are the basic STEPS.
Here are the basic STEPS.
1. FILL a basin, sink, bucket, or tub with cool water, and perhaps a little wool soap or wash. I now have a dedicated bucket for big pieces. I use a cereal bowl for swatches, and if necessary, I use my tub for big pieces.
2. SOAK: Put in the piece and let it get completely soaked. This takes anywhere from 20 minutes to overnight.
3. DRAIN the water. If it is in a sink or tub, pull the plug and hold the piece back from the drain. If in a bowl or bucket, pour out the water. You can press down on your piece to squeeze out excess water, but don't wring it.
4. BLOT the piece. Lay a towel flat and place the piece on the towel, and roll up the towel, squeezing (not wringing) the towel as you go to absorb more water. If possible, use a towel that is close in color. Some yarns bleed. Some new towels could bleed on your beautiful white shawl!
5. PIN or BLOCK your piece.
-Hats can be blocked on something spherical. I have used soccer balls, balloons, goldfish bowls, bowls, vases, and mannequin heads. Berets usually fit over dinner plates, and I set that on top of a vase. Your specific pattern may have a recommendation.
-Shawls and sweaters often need to be pinned to schematic dimensions. I pin mine on a fresh, dry towel over blocking mats and/or on a spare bed.
-Cowls can lay flat. My mom once made this roll of towels to the dimension of her pattern to dry some cowls. Isn't that a clever plan?!
-Socks can lay flat or be put on sock blockers.
-Other shapes - I have used bricks and books covered in plastic bags to hold the shape in felted bags, a flat-bottomed tea kettle for a felted, flat-topped hat.
5b. Make note of anything that should be MEASURED or POINTY - matching points for seaming, shawl edging, elf hats, corners on bags, etc.
6. Let DRY completely!! Lace and lightweight projects may take only a few hours; felted pieces may take a few days. Unpin, continue pattern, or wear!
One more blocking picture - I'm sure the hammer was for something else!
You can do it!
Have you blocked your knitting? What room of the house do you block your handmade items in?
Have you blocked your knitting? What room of the house do you block your handmade items in?
Wonderful instructions for blocking. Yes, I do block my hand knits, but not always my swatches🙄. My usual place to block is the master bathroom floor on plastic mats just like yours! Don't they work great?
ReplyDeleteI have those same little puzzle piece things that I block my knits on. I just lay them anywhere I can find a space -- and preferably where cats won't walk on them LOL. When I was a kid I used to loathe making a swatch. I saw it as such a waste of time and thought it took much too long. Now that I'm old and time flies by, the time it takes to swatch is to miniscule, it seems silly that I ever even questioned it. Great post Karen!
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